1. WHEN TO PLANT:
 The
preferred time to plant a lawn is Oct/Nov. when weeds are at their
lowest growth cycle. Also this will allow the root system to develop
over the winter in preparation for the hot and dry summer months. In
mild coastal areas planting can take place at any time. But some special
requirements will have to be met. Spring is a good time to plant lawns
if a proper weed control program is first implemented
2. CULTIVATE SOIL/ORGANIC MATERIAL:
Plow,
rototill, hand dig or somehow breakup the soil and amend with humus,
ground bark, aged sawdust or wood shavings to allow for good root and
water penetration of the soil. This operation is the most important part
of the whole process if you want a healthy drought tolerant lawn it will
need deep roots.
3. PREPLANT WEED CONTROL:
Incorporate
fertilizer and level to final grade. Water as per #8 for at least two
weeks to germinate any weed seeds. Spray with a contact weed killer
(ROUND-UP has proven very effective) following manufacturers
instructions carefully. Weeds should be dead within 4 to 5 days. Resume
watering one day after spraying for an additional 7 days, If more weeds
appear, spray again. Do not pull weeds or cultivate the area after last
kill. This will bring unwanted weed seed to the surface.
4. RAKE THE SURFACE SMOOTH:
Lightly
rake the surface to break up the crust formed by your watering cycles.
5. SCATTER SEEDS:
Sow
at the recommended seeding rate. Sow 1/4 of the seed to the entire area
in one application. Follow with the next three applications in different
directions. When spreading by hand it may be helpful to add sand or
sawdust with the seed mix. For best results use a hand crank operated
seed spreader.
6. RAKE SEED INTO THE SURFACE LIGHTLY:
Using
a bamboo or fan rake, brush the seed barely under the soil. Roll the
surface with an empty lawn roller to set the seed in contact with the
soil.
7. MULCH LIGHTLY:
This
is optional, though mulching with 1/8th inch of a rich
organic soil, sawdust or peat moss
will provide shade to new seedlings and help retain moisture.
8. LAWN WATERING:
Water
seeds in thoroughly with a fine mist nozzle. Depending on the time of
year, the seed bed may take as many as 5 short cycles per day.
Germination will occur within the first week for some grasses while
others may take as long as 21 days. For this reason: YOU MUST KEEP SEED
BED DAMP UNTIL ALL SEED HAS GERMINATED. HOWEVER, DO NOT OVER WATER!
Reduce the number of cycles per day to just keep the surface damp.
9. BEFORE MOWING:
After
3 weeks most of the seed will be germinated and you can cut back on the
number of watering cycles. When the grass gets to two or three inches in
height. Allow the seed bed to dry out just enough so that you can walk
lightly on it without leaving footprints. Roll the new lawn with a water
filled lawn roller to set the seedlings firmly in the soil. Mow the lawn
with a sharp blade mower set at a 2" cutting height. If you must
use a rotary mower, be sure the blade is sharp, as a dull one will pull
the shallow rooted new plants out of the soil.
10. FERTILIZE:
This
will be a good time to apply more fertilizer. Your new lawn has just
been mowed and it needs water. before watering chose the proper type of
fertilizer (this depends on the time of year) and broadcast at the rate
recommended by the manufacturer. Then water in thoroughly to prevent
burning of your new seedlings. Watering cycles should be set to maintain
1 to 2 1/2 inches of water per week, depending on your location, i,e, 1"
for coastal areas and 2 1/2" for inner valley areas.
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