 It
has been said, whether a plant is a weed or not depends on whether you
want it or not. Nevertheless, nearly three-quarters of the 1,000 plants
identified as California weeds are imports from other countries. Clearly, early
European settlers who brought them here wanted them to fulfill their needs for
animal fodder, medicines and other uses. Plants from Africa, Asia and other
areas with Mediterranean-type climates have found California to be welcoming and
have established strong footholds here.
Regardless of their origins, these
plants are seldom welcome guests in today's gardens, landscapes and turf.
Eradication efforts have often been limited to chemical treatments or the
application of "elbow grease" to pull or hoe them. Modern movement
toward more chemical-free weed control has focused on reducing or eliminating
chemical herbicides, though many of these products are valuable and, used
properly, are safe. In certain efforts, such as with turf replacement or
preparation for planting in a wild area, herbicides may be the only reasonable
option.
Do No Harm
Just as the guiding principle of the
medical professions in applying treatments is, "do no harm," so too
should it be a guide in dealing with weeds. Depending on the site, an
overzealous approach to weed control may make matters worse. Enthusiastic
tilling of soils which have been undisturbed for years is likely to turn up
large quantities of dormant weed seeds which will then have to be dealt with
when they germinate. Imported topsoil may harbor weed seed. |
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In some areas
the soil's seed load is minimal, as is the case with a heavily excavated
building site where subsoils have been turned up and may have been supporting a
few tough weeds for a year or two. In such spots, chopping and removing the
weeds followed by raking or cultivation of the soil and watering will germinate
most of the weeds which can then be killed with a herbicide. After allowing a
period for breakdown and dissipation of the herbicide, the desired plants can
be installed or seeded.
Nonchemical Methods
In warm areas, inland from coastal
climate influences, weeds and pathogens in the soil can be killed prior to new
planting by solarizing the soil. Create a "greenhouse effect" by
covering the intended planting area with clear plastic for 6-8 weeks. This
method relies on sunlight to penetrate the plastic sheet which prevents heat
from escaping.
By far, the best nonchemical methods
rely on wise landscape management and hardy, desirable plants that will help you
control weeds by competing with them for water and nutrients, light and space,
denying weeds the opportunity to grow or thrive. Areas which are already planted
with ornamentals that have been invaded by weeds require other methods.
Broadleaf weeds, such as dandelion or yellow oxalis, in lawn or turfgrass may
have to be dug out to prevent resprouting. Well-established or deeply-rooted
weeds may also have to be treated with a contact herbicide. Timely action is
needed to eradicate these invaders before seed can set, even if that means
nothing more than cutting back tall young weeds.
In nonturf areas hand cultivating on a
regular basis is an effective control for the hobbyist gardener but may be
impractical and too labor intensive for landscape maintenance companies. Nonturf
landscape plants, if well established, will compete with weeds and keep unwanted
growth at bay. An excellent weed control method that is beneficial in other
ways, is to add mulch over bare-dirt areas surrounding ornamental plantings.
Organic mulches, such as redwood bark or Albright's
Bed Spread, smother weeds then break down, enriching the soil.
Black plastic sheeting is popular for
weed control but should not be used because it deprives the soil of
oxygen, increases its temperature, and may cause a reduction of beneficial fungi
and microbial action that is necessary to the health of root systems.
Choose from more articles from Albright Seed Company.
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